Harry Winston and the Missing Diamond

Harry Winston Luxury Watches are timepieces dreams are made of. Glittering with diamonds, sporting gorgeous curvaceous lugs, Harry Winston watches embody pure unrestrained luxury.

Harry Winston, the founder of the legendary company was born in Los Angelos. His father was a small retail jeweler stemming from many generations of jewelers. At 16, Harry Winston helped his father in the shop, and then at 21 he felt he was ready for New York City. He started with $2,000 and quickly built a reputation for himself buying historic diamonds such as the famed Vargas Diamond and the Jonkers Diamond (stay tuned). He was full of courage, determination and high intellect. He sold diamonds to royalty and movie stars. Marylon Monroe referenced Harry Winston in "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend".

He recognized his fortune in his smaller customers who bought small engagement rings with hard earned money. "But most of our business is in the lower-price field." he said in a1949 interview " We have stones for as little as $2 . The average engagement ring in the country is a quarter-carat, retailing between $100 and $15o. That's the biggest part of our trade"

An interesting occurrence happened when a journalist was interviewing him regarding the Hope Diamond (which in itself has a long and interesting history - click here for the Hope Diamond Story). Harry Winston was seated at a long velvet-topped table. Before him lay four trays containing the jewel collection of the late Evelyn Walsh McLean. Nearby on a stand hung the 44 and a half carat Hope Diamond and the famed Star of the East Diamond. Suddenly, Harry Winston's demeanor changed ever so slightly; although still quite relaxed. he said,

" There's a diamond missing, the little five-carat one"

Harry Winston searched through the gems as the journalist shuddered.

"Ah, here it is" Harry Winston said as he plucked the five carat diamond from under an elaborate ring setting, "Funny," he continued seemingly unaware of the journalists relief, "I can tell in a second when one's missing. Works unconsciously."
The journalist still troubled by the almost disappearance of the diamond inquired as to what would happen if the diamond would have vanished,
"Well for one thing," he said, "I might press this little button near my table . The police would surround the building in just a few minutes."

Then Harry Winston recalled the harrowing day when his elbow inadvertently knocked a $125,000 diamond into the waste paper basket near his desk. The entire staff had to search through all trash receptacles and about 1500 paper packages. It was like searching for a needle in a hay stack and the staff all very nearly had nervous breakdowns. Finally, after 3 days, the diamond was discovered in a trash can outside the building waiting for the garbage truck to come haul it away. Since that day, Harry Winston made a rule that all garbage must be kept in the building, just in case.

Harry Winston inspires generations of luxury lovers.

Harry Winston and The President Vargas Diamond.

On August 13, 1928, along the shores of the San Antonio River in Brazil, two garimpeiros (gold diggers) noticed a large rock embedded in the gravel of the River. The rock was the Vargas Diamond weighing in at 726.6 carats. Wanting a fast fortune, the two prospectors sold the diamond to a broker for $56,000 who then immediately sold it for $235,000. The broker in turn sold the gem to a Dutch syndicate represented by the Dutch Union Bank of Amsterdam. Now named "President Vargas" in honor of Getulio Dornelles Vargas, President of Brazil (1930-45 and 1951-54), the stone went up for bid.

Harry Winston in his office high above fifth avenue learned of the diamond's existence and immediately arranged travel, stopping off in London and then on to Amsterdam. The desire for this incredible find was not his alone, and he bid against diamond merchants from Antwerp, Amsterdam, London and New York. Harry Winston won the bid, purchasing the diamond for some $700,000. The diamond was then shipped by ordinary registered mail, (like the Hope Diamond) to his office in New York. The diamond was insured by Lloyds for $750,000 should anything occur. Nothing did and the diamond arrived safely at Harry Winston's office, five floors above the hustle and bustle of Fifth Avenue.

Harry Winston had certain plans for the diamond, plans which were a tad risky and could turn this formidable diamond into dust. Harry Winston wanted to cut the diamond into 23 smaller diamonds which would accrue $2,000,000 when sold.
Harry Winston called for the best diamond cutter in the business, Adrian Grassley. Adrian Grassley had been cutting diamonds for over 40 years, but he had never done anything like this. Just the thought of striking a diamond of this size made him weak to his knees. Before the final strike, the diamond was studied. More than 100 plaster and glass models were made and after a year of intensive scrutinizing, the final decision as to its division was made. A diamond expert marked the gem taking careful account of the direction of the grain. One incorrect cut could shatter the diamond rendering it utterly worthless.

Tuesday, July 29th, 1941, Grassley entered the small fortified room which held the diamond. He had tossed and turned the night before unable to sleep, unnerved by the task ahead. He spent the morning carefully grooving a V shaped notch at the precise spot of cleavage. Finally it was time. At 2pm, the traffic of 5th avenue a drone in the distance, Adrian Grassley, Harry Winston and his diamond polisher were the only people in the room. Grassley placed a dull edge steel blade in the V shaped notch and tapped lightly. Nothing happened. Grassley was unconsciously holding back for fear of failure.
Suddenly Harry Winston reached for the stone. Was there a cross grain no one had noticed? Could it be possible a year of calculations a miss? As he peered into the diamond's flawless depth he noticed a tiny four millimeter fracture - perfectly straight and true.
"Strike it harder," Winston urged Grassley knowing that this final blow could cost him millions. Grassley did but still the Vargas did not break. Grassley reached for a slightly heavier rod, and this time the diamond split into two. Perfectly.
Tears of relief coursed down Grasley's cheeks, "Never again," he says, "Never again."

This split created a 550 carat diamond and a 150 carat diamond which were later cut into 29 diamonds, 6 more than originally intended. Of the larger diamonds, 16 were emerald cut, 1 pear shape, one marquise and smaller triangle cuts and a baguette, a total of 411.06 carats.